9 steps to consider before opting for hair dye
Whether you're looking to emulate the 'angry pink' hair colour trendthat took New York Fashion Week by storm, or want to shake up your current lengths with a hint of balayage, dyeing virgin hair can be a pretty daunting and intricate venture
.
First, there's deciding whether you want to go it alone or hand the reigns over to a professional. (We'd suggest the latter if you want a perfectly Instagrammable 'do, just saying).
that's before we've even touched on what to do if you have a sensitive scalp.
We enlisted the experts to tell you everything you need to know before switching things up and dyeing your hair for the first time.
'In some cases, clients think they want an ash dip dye, but the colour is more a beige balayage,' says Paco Latorre, Live True London Artistic Designer and Senior Colourist, 'or they may want a chocolate brown but the colour is lighter and may require a few appointments to achieve it.'
He continues, 'Show your stylist pictures of hair colours that you love and also those that you don't. Ask if you could see images of their work or even visit the salon's Instagram feed for inspiration,' - something which Casey Sullivan, Colour Director at Daniel Galvin Kensington, seconds.
'Definitely bring in photos of what you don't like because everyone has different interpretations of colour. That way, your colourist will know what to avoid.'
Book A Consultation And Always Be Realistic
That rainbow dip-dye might look super-cute on Pinterest, but is it attainable?
'Listen to your colourist,' says Aaron Carlo, TRESemme's Ambassador and Session Stylist. 'He or she will help you achieve what is best for your hair and features.'
It also pays to take your skin tone into consideration when choosing a colour; you want it to complement, not clash. Most salons have real hair wefts in a number of colours on hand, so that you can see the shade next to your skin and get a better idea of whether it'll suit you before biting the bullet.
Protect Your Scalp
It's important to carry out a patch test at least 48 hours before your salon session to ensure you aren't allergic to the particular hair dye used. But even if there isn't a reaction, it's still a good idea to take precautions to safeguard your scalp.
Painful red scalps are so not hot right now.
'If you do have a sensitive scalp, argan oil can be added to the colour to prevent any discomfort or irritation,' reveals Paco.
But don't worry - it won't undermine your colour or prevent it from taking properly. In fact, at Jo Hansford, colourists mix a bespoke oil in with tints to prevent irritation, while Aaron recommends putting coconut oil on the scalp the night before (especially if you are bleaching your whole head) to deeply nourish the skin.
The oil replicates a build-up of the hair's natural oils,' he says, 'and the bleach will sift through it.' Genius.
Other options are choosing an ammonia-free colour (yep, they do exist, just ask your stylist) or opting for highlights or lowlights.
'With this option, the colourants stay inside the foil and don't actually touch your scalp, says Casey. 'They also require way less maintenance!'
Don't Wash Your Hair Beforehand
We know how annoying it is when you're hair-washing routine doesn't align with your plans, but don't make the common mistake of rocking up to the salon with fresh tresses, especially if you're having an all-over tint applied.
Not only could you sabotage the end result (clean hair can be too 'slippery' and a little oil will give your chosen colour some grip), but according to Fie Karayannis, Senior Colorurist at Jo Hansford, you'll strip your lengths of their natural shield against harsh chemicals.
'It's actually better to leave your hair dirty,' she says, something which Paco echos.
'I suggest you don't wash your hair in the 24 hours (48 hours if bleach is being used) leading up to your appointment,' he advises.
Be Prepared For Multiple Appointments
If you have dark hair and are looking to go considerably lighter, it's likely you'll be in for the long-haul, and that can mean a number of trips.
'It may take more than one appointment to achieve the colour you want,' says Aaron. 'In order to save the condition, you need to make any drastic changes gradually so that your hair has time to repair itself.'
'For this reason, it is best to sit down with your stylist and chat through your images first,' adds Paco. 'This is so that they can create a colour that you'll love.'
Ditch Your Current Shampoo And Conditioner
It's likely that your current shampoo and conditioner just won't cut it when it comes to looking after your new hue. That BOGOF two-pack you picked up with the weekly shop? Chuck it.
After one process, hair automatically becomes more porous and dry as the cuticle is opened up - especially when it's exposed to chemicals like bleach. So, to stop your lengths from resembling something like straw or your colour fading away after the first wash, you need to bring out the big guns.
We're talking clever shampoos filled to bursting with strand-building proteins like keratin (great for caring for highlights according to Aaron) and conditioners packed with ultra-nourishing oils to keep colour and shine on lockdown.
Stylist's Tip: 'We always double cleanse our clients' hair,' says Adam Reed. 'The first shampoo deep cleans to remove daily dirt and styling product residue. It's the second cleanse that delivers the shampoo's caring benefits to your hair.'
Be Prepared For Some Serious Upkeep:-
If you've gone for an all-over tint, you'll need to keep on top of it, which could mean making an appointment as regularly as every month to freshen things up - and the worst thing you can do is leave it.
'People seem to think the longer they leave between colour appointments the better for their hair,' says Aaron, 'but actually, if you go more regularly, and to a trusted colourist, there's less work to do each time and so the upkeep is easier.'
Makes sense, right?
'It's also important to discuss your lifestyle with your hairdresser and what you can realistically manage in regards to maintenance,' says Fie. 'There's no use opting for a tint which may need refreshing every 3 to 4 weeks if you can only manage to get to the hair salon every couple of months.'
And if you've gone for highlights or balayage? It's a little less time consuming, but if you want your lengths to look more Chrissy Teigen than dry and lifeless, don't miss a beat.
'At Daniel Galvin we recommend making an appointment every 10-12 weeks for highlighted hair,' says Casey.
'And always bear in mind that the ends of your hair are the oldest,' says Fie, 'therefore, you do need regular trims and treatments to keep it all looking healthy and shiny.'
You Might Need To Switch Up Your Make-Up Routine
Yes, really.
From eye shadow to lipstick, the shades you swore by before changing your hair colour could potentially clash.
But anything that involves a trip to the Selfridges beauty aisle gets our vote...
'A different hair colour will affect your whole look,' warns Aaron. 'so it may be worth experimenting with different make-up tones.'
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